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I am a former master willing to give lessons to beginners and intermediate players as a service to this site, which I am unable to support financially. Respond here if you are interested.
Would it be possible to add 4-player chaturanga to the offerings on Brain King? I enjoy this game very much and think that others would, too. I personally prefer the no-dice variant and alliances between red and yellow, and black and green, as described in Gollon's modern version of the variant.
Dare I say that Yonin Shogi (4-player Japanese chess) is even better?
<Regarding that chess set... this is all the info I have about it right now. This is what my mum said to an interested person... "I'm not really sure what they are made of, at a guess I'd say resin,
>it's not wood for sure.
>I don't think it's plaster of paris or anything like that, I think they are
>too light for that."
This person replied with (and I hope its OK to copy this!)
"I think what you have here is very unusual. If you look at the pawns (the
little ones - 8 of each colour) they are a different shape. My guess is that
if you compare the other pieces, (knights, bishops, rooks) and look at them
closely, they too will have differences. The Kings may even be vastly (but
subtly) different. The significance of this is that it shows that EACH piece
came from a different mould. Usually all the pieces come from a common mould
- one for all the pawns, one for all the rooks, one for all the bishops etc.
So you can see the original cost of this set would have been quite high.
Yes, they are likely to be made of resin.
They are a replica of a collectioon of chess men found on the beach at Uig
in the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides in 1831. They are called the
Lewis Chess Men and are held in the British Museum. In fact they are one of
the top 10 treasures in the Museum as voted by the curators last year.
(Number 6 I think). The originals date from the 12th Century and are hand
carved from walrus tusks."
Hi everyone!
Hope you dont mind, Whisperz, I want to plug this chess set that my mum is selling. She listed it on ebay, then found out its quite unusual. So any chess players who collect sets have a look! I can give extra details if you like, so can my mum!
Its a gorgeous chess set!! Any collectors would be chuffed with this, and each individual piece is apparently made from different mold and slightly different! Oh, and she accepts international payments!! :o)
Okay ... four things effect changes to your ratings.
1. The result (obvious) ... a win will generally increase your rating (it won't go down), a draw (ratings generally get closer, the higher dropping and the lower increasing), and loses decrease your rating.
2. Your rating before the result was achieved (again obvious)
3. The difference between the players (again, reasonably obvious, not sure though what happens when a player is not rated, sorry). Where the difference is great and the higher player loses both change dramatically (big penalty on the higher rated player and big reward for the lower rated player) or if the higher player wins both change only a little.
4. The number of games which have been counted to achieve that rating (not so obvious). There is an "averaging" which is based over all the games played, if there are a lot of games the change will be minimised reflecting the establishment of an average position. When a player has only played a few games, there are less games to average against so the changes are more significant.
I believe that it is this last component which caused the your opponent's rating to change but did not effect your rating.
Hope this helps ... for more info check out the FAQ
i forfeited a lot of games and my rating dropped to 1200. however, i just drew a 1543 player and his rating dropped but mine didn't change. does anyone know what might account for this? thanks.
Also, check out Chessville and do a search for interfaces. You can get free ones to use on FICS.
I like Winboard which also serves as a chess engine and PGN reader.
Jin is a java interface and very good. Also Thief and Interchess are available free. If you cannot find the specific program I mention,
let me know and I'll find the URL and pass that along.
You are right that could be a problem.In the single games you can look who is online, challenge and play at once. But if you speak about a tournement we have first to test the technic of he server.
The regular way is sure to set a fixed time in the invitation,when the tournement is starting and everybody has to decide about his participation.
How do you arrange to play a game with someone at the same time in different time zones? Do you offer the hours available for yourself, and then see who is able to meet those?
Hello Chessplayer,on www.chessgate.de exists a new German chessserver (in english too) for live-chess (only standard)in real-time.It has a good quality for fast games and it is complete free!
You can download the software (freeware) here: chessgate_client_setup.exe or go to the site location: http://212.162.12.39/sv/pz.php3 Register with your brainking username and soon we can play our first five minutes blitzchesstournement only for brainking-players.I suggest every player adds there to his profil:"onlinechess on www.brainking.com"
I can only wish that I could claim credit for the genus of progressive chesses, which encompasses at least half a dozen or so different game types. The truth is that the basic idea has been with us for at least a few decades.
I presume you played the Scottish version, which is usually the term given to basic progressive. English Progressive was invented around 1982 by an Englishman (no surprise there), who quite correctly wanted to improve on the uncontrolled kamikaze play inherent in the other progressive types. Oddly, no one seems to know the identity of this person, but his creativity spawned a zeal in me unmatched by all other game types!
I played ENPR in an Italian organization until around 2000, when it dissolved; but they used to sponsor tournaments in a wide variety of chess variants. Their chief game was Italian Progressive Chess, which differs only from Scottish in that you have to utilize your full turn or you lose.
Sujet: Rules for English Progressive Chess (variant)
ENGLISH PROGRESSIVE CHESS (ENPR), embraces the basic "Progressive" idea dictating that White moves once, followed by two Black moves, then three White moves, etc. until conclusion; and in
each successive turn the number of possible moves increases by one.
In the better, refined English concept though, a limitation is added which prevents any unit from moving more than once per turn, unless everything
that can be moved has been and moves remain in the turn, whereby the "first sequence" of the turn is complete, and the moving player may then
commence a second sequence, and extra sequences if possible; but in each sequence, every mobile unit must move before another sequence can begin.
However, there is no restriction on order of movement within any sequence.
It is allowable to move in such a way as to block or pin one of more of your units to exempt them from movement within a sequence. Pawns are
most easily immobilized. Castling is one move in a turn, but counts as a King and Rook move in a sequence.
Each move must be legal according to chess rules. A player in check following an opponent's turn must use the first move of his turn to
nullify check; if he cannot, he is checkmated.
Any move creating a check truncates the turn, and any remaining moves are discarded without affecting the number of moves on following turns.
One ideal middlegame tactic is lining up your King on a file adjacent to an unbridled enemy Pawn, thereby limiting his next turn to one sequence; or compelling a Pawn to capture with a likewise result. An even sharper maneuver is forcing your opponent to answer a check with a check; this usually puts the respondent at a
decided disadvantage. Here is an example (a double slash denotes a completed sequence):
1.e4, 2.g5 Bg7, 3.d4 c3 f4, 4.e6 b5 Nc6 Ba6, 5.Nf3 Be3 Nbd2 b4 a4, 6.Bf8 Nf6 Ne7 c6 Qc8 Rb8, 7.fxg5 axb5 Rxa6 Bd3 Kf2 Qb3 Rha1, 8.cxb5 Rb7 Qc7 Ng6 Bg7 O-O Ng4+, 9.Kf1 Bg1 e5 h3 Bxb5 c4 Rc1 Ne4 Qa4, 10.Rxb5 Rfb8 Qd8 d5 h5 Kh7 Bh8 Nf4 Nh2+, 11.Bxh2 cxb5 Kf2 Rac6 Nc5 Qb3 Rc2 g6+, 12.Kxg6 Qg5 Bxe5 h4 f6 Ne2 Re8 a5// Kf5 Qc1 Nc3 Bxd4+, 13.Nxd4+, 14.Kg5 a4 e5 f5 Qd1 Ne2 Re7// exd4 Ng3 Qf1#
Pawns may promote to Queen, Rook, Bishop or Knight, but the promoted piece may not move again in the same sequence. A promotion creating a
check ends the turn, so it is often worthwhile to make a choice allowing for continued moving.
If a player is not checkmated, and cannot make a legal move during any move of his turn, or can construct any position which exhausts his legal
moves during play without executing check or using all allotted moves, the game is drawn by stalemate (very rare).
MAGNETIC CHESS is a short, sharp game, with fascinating tactics! The object is to capture the enemy King. (The concept of 'check' does not exist here in the legal sense.) A move by any unit other than a King generates an imaginary magnetic impulse ("magnetism") along horizontal and vertical axes of the landing square that repels friendly units (except the King) to the farthest open square on that axis and draws in opposing units (except the King) to an adjacent square. For example, White could open 1.c4, pulling Black's pawn to c5, 1.c4(c7c5). Black could then move the Queen to a5, creating two magnetic effects, 1. ... Qa5(a2a4,c5h5). (Note that the black pawn at a7 is unaffected because it is already next to Ra8.) In this way, each move involves the rearrangement of anywhere from one to five units, but magnetism extends only as far as open spaces allow.
Kings are not affected by magnetism, nor can magnetism affect any unit in a line beyond either King. King moves do not create magnetism, but during castling a Rook move does.
Friendly pawns may be repelled to the first or eighth rank. Pawns on the first or second rank may always make a two-step move, even if previously moved. A friendly Pawn on an unobstructed file propelled to the eighth rank is immediately promoted; this is most effectively accomplished by moving a Queen or Rook behind the Pawn (so that the new piece is defended).
The ArtfulDodger #3 has a few good men. But then that depends on what you consider good. I think the competition in this tournament is good with 1700-2000 ratings. I'll start it with 6 but may wait for 8, depending on how long it takes to fill. It's at 4 now. Unrateds welcome.
There are some very good chess players through out this site. Look at the open tournaments to see who is signed up. Their rating will be beside their name.
Can i say Sorry to all who signed up for my Beginners Chess tournament for such a late start.!
This was due to me totally forgetting that i had set this tournament up.!
Sorry again & good luck to all.
- Select the piece you want to move by "clicking" on it ... only pieces which can be moved can be selected - the cursor changes from an arrow pointer to a hand over these pieces.
- Click on the square you want to move the selected piece to ... again the cursor changes to a hand to indicate which squares are vaild - invalid squares show the arrow pointer.
- Click on the appropriate button below the board (the first button will record the move and then take you back to your main page, the second button will record the move and leave you at the current game, and the third button will record the move and take you to your next game). There is also a button to cancel the move slightly below these three. The buttons only appear after you have made a valid move.
You seem to have made a move already so hopefully you have worked it out :)
Yep, when the time runs out, the game is automatically forfeited, and they do count towards ratings and win/loss. However, if the game had less than 4 moves when timed-out, it will still count towards your win/loss, but will not affect your BKR, win or loss.