They share the same engine as the VW golf and the Audi A3!Right?

Bruno Jesus: The Leon is a great car, and the turbo models are very worthy for performance also :o)

What do you guys think of the new model of Seat Leon?

yeah, just needs a new piston and gudgeon pin ( small end), get some cylinder heads for it also

Stevie: thats the old engine you replaced?

Think by th etime the show season etc starts again, im gonna get my spare engine rebuilt ready incase lol especially as im meant to be doing a hill climb series also

Stevie: thats really a shame.
at least consider the possibility of debris in the entire oil passages. may be woth it in another 20k. good luck.

Kipling: i got a short block. also its over a year since got it and near 20000miles since .. its out of the warrenty period etc, but also i only have damage to one of the cylinder heads, so they would throw it out even if I tried to claim etc..

Stevie: did you buy a long block when you replaced that engine last year? just curious if there was a warranty for the malfunction.

Backoff: they add taxes to everything here :o(
gets costly when oil changes are every 5000 mmiles LOL

20 US Dollar = 11.29880 British Pound
for the oil

I wonder how much for shipping lol

1 quart [US, liquid] = 0.946 liter

so it's just short of 5 liters

5 quart [US, liquid] = 4.731 liter

Backoff: how does qt compare to UK litre?
Most engines here take 5 litres, but th eoil comes in 4.5 litre jugs and 1 litre. It cost me about £45 for 5litres (~$70)

Stevie: I buy the 5qt jugs at wally world for $19.00. It bets buying it my the qt lol.

Backoff: Mobil 1 is th edogs danglies I swear by the stuff, its just expensive :o(

I like to run road tar in mine, I like it STICK to the metal!!!

Na but I do run Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30 my car. 40k mines and after a quick wipe with a rag, you can eat off the valve covers. I spend most of my time over 5k rpms and have never had a problem (but then again it is a Toyota). I change my oil filter every 5k and the oil every 10k. I'm sold on synthetic!

tazman7474: at higher temps the viscosity breakdown requires the heaveir oils. efi engines run a heck of alot hotter than naturally aspirated engines, yet OEM specs generlly call for thinner oils. this never made good sense to me. guess 100k is the life span OEM's hope to get, and new car purchases are then called for. They are designed to break down

Kipling: actually i use 20-50, it's more stabil at tempurature and takes less hp to push throught the motor. remember, i run a restricted class, everything i can do to cut hp loss is actually a hp gain!

tazman7474: and high performance is AWG 50?

tazman7474: one of the guys in the garage works in a large dealership by day, he tell us that some of the new motors are running .0007-.001! that's why they run 5w-20 oil in them, 10w-40 won't even flow through the motor!

Kipling: at .003 i start losing oil pressure when the engine is up to temp, we probably run a little hotter than most boats do

tazman7474: on an average... .003 will give you less break-in wear. but to each their own, huh?
Most of my rebuilds are commercial type.. (most boats run truck motors) with the occasianal high perf...which is almost always GM big blocks.
the foreign motors..ie: Subaru, way well be vastly different.

Kipling: i run clearances of .002 on the rods and mains, the book calls for .0015-.0025 i split it and run 8,000 rpm all day long with them!

tazman7474: afraid so.
A human hair can be as thick as 10 thousands of an inch thick. most rod and main clearances are 3 thousands of an inch. any more than that,and oil pressure starts to drop.
Running those mustangs...I'm sure you know all about that!! LOL

Kipling: a file that WILL turn into a grenade! no if's and's or buts about it!

tazman7474: I would hope he has a warranty with that engine. If not...you are absolutly right. The engine oil passages all lead to the oil pan where it can be redistibuted to the crankshaft,main and connecting rod bearings.
At high rpms...a speck of debris is like a file.

Stevie: with a problem like that and seeing how close the tolerances are in the newer motors, i think you're looking at pulling the motor and checking everything for dirt and debris!

Backoff: yeah !!
so looks like got a problem :o( the oil pressure was showing fine when it happend :o(

Stevie: I think that uses high pressure oil to float the cam instead of a metal bearing right?

right bank inlet camshaft,, one of the journels must have had a foreign body get in the oil grrove.. clogged it,, it then ran dry and has damageed the bearing cap and the cam and filled the oil groove with metal :o(
gonna see if can salvage cam and head ( as there are no bearings, the cam runs direct on the aluminium cylinder head and cap)

Hopefully wont have to by new head and cam

tazman7474: for sure, but thats a massive job on these,, they get complicated with their "pull" clutches instead of "push " ones etc etc etc.. should only take a couple of hours to find out this way.

Stevie: it's easy after you get the motor out and on a stand!

tazman7474: hopefully just a tidy up of righ tbank i/l cam or replace it and the bearing cases may do the job ( that one is the one that picked up) cos its a major job working on these flat opposing four boxer engines :o(

Stevie: ouch! all you can do now is tear in and see what it did, looks like you have a project for a little bit!

Stevie: well, with any luck, an exhaust valve wasnt closed. That could well bend a rod...even at lower rpm's.

Kipling: material toothed belt, but it jumped teeth rather than tear teeth off.. or could have been much worse, as the cams have all gone about 25 degrees out, rather than sat still till pistons hit valves

Stevie: chain, or gear driven?

one of my 4 camshafts picked up and momentarily siezed this morning, and threw the timing out on all 4 and the crankshaft :o(
Gonna strip some parts tomorrow and see if the valves etc survived the ordeal :o( luckily i was at low speed and revs

http://www.carver-europe.com/
http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=carver%20car&sa=N&tab=wi
http://www.gibbsaquada.com/

http://members.ld.infoseek.co.jp/tin53_2/hol%20santa.jpg

http://www.sacwheelmen.org/old-trips-articles/specials/santaexp/santaexpress.jpg

Backoff: I guess its cos we are wetter here than you LOL Ive used the ZZ1 then the updated ZZ2 and then the ZZ3, they are all directionals

Yokahama are race bred and thats more what they are for.. unfortunately they dont suit the course road surfaces LOL

http://www.nicholasroussos.com/images/dolphin-submarine.jpg

http://www.aps.edu/aps/GovBent/fmf/images/taxi.JPG

Also according to Avon's website (whom I've never heard of before lol) they do sell in the US but not all there sizes/compounds. The ZZ3 is only england.

Stevie: I'm running into that same problem with my yokahama's. They grip like crazy (80mph off ramps are no problem) but I think the compound is too soft as they wear quick as heck.

tazman7474: I found yokahama was great for grip :oD but just normal road use on my old car would wear them out in 10,000 miles. Now I have 4 wheel drive and do a fair bit of track etc, the cost etc would be silly. so ive found Avon zz3 tyres ( that site never came up with them lol) etc a reasonable compromise

Stevie: sometimes you have to trade tire life for grip! if i could only come up with a compound that gripped like bubble gum and wore like cast iron, i'd be rich!

tazman7474: delivery would be a tad high from your side of the pond LOL Ive always found the bridgestone tyres a softer compound and wear quicker so that narrowed it down more

Stevie: the goodyear looked like the best choice to me too! and it's in the range of what you said you spent anyways. if i check around with some of the guys, i can probably find a couple of sites that have them cheaper.

tazman7474: Thats what I done the first time, as i dont run the recommended size for my car (should be 45 profile) but the first time i ticked the all season boxs for tyre type to allow for our wet times LOL