furbster: I'm far from an expert, but my early thoughts are at least at the first of the game, don't "take" too many of your opponents pieces since that leaves less for them to connect. But as the game progressing, sometimes taking a "key" pieces which is linking 2 "groups" could be a good way to stall your oponent from connecting everything.
I have now played a few games, and I think on concept that is working for me is...
1. Plan both building and blocking moves. Prevent peices from getting to the middle, and keeping your there.
2. Don't get stuck. Watch available moves for all pieces make sure you don't get stuck with only 1 piece in the row so you can't move the distance need to join first.
3. As BBW said, avoid taking your oppenents pieces early on. Use it to take key peices that are linking two groups. Another concern to avoid getting blocked you may want to take a piece.
As pieces can move diagonally, a chequered board would probably be a good help in seeing the possible moves. I am less sure about the aesthetic effect though.
Although the board used in the commercial game is not chequered, I saw that the available programs and viewers generally used chequered boards. What do you think about it ?
I find the moves unpredictable/do the rules about how many stones you have in a row just belong to the vertcal line, or the horizontal and diagonal too? Can anyone make it clearer for me please?
ruby2shoes: How many total stones in one line is how many spaces you can move your piece.
So lets say there are 5 total stones in a line (3 of yours, 2 of your opponents), you can move one of your 3 stones taht are in that row 5 spaces in that same row. You can jump over your own pieces. You can land on your opponent piece. But you can not just over your opponents piece.
If you want to move a piece on a diagnal, it is the same thing. Total number of pieces on that line is how many spaces you can move one of your own pieces in the diagonal line.
BIG BAD WOLF: Thank you you scary Wolf/lol/so in this line of 5 pieces, going in any direction,if the 5th space from yours is the opponents piece,you can take it? Likewise, if the 5th stone is your own, you cannot move in that direction? You can see just how confused I am!
ruby2shoes: Now that 5 pieces is only for the line that has 5 pieces. If you move a piece in a different direction, you have to count how many pieces are in the line that you are moving in.
So for the example of 5 pieces - as long as you do not jump OVER any of your opponenets pieces, and the 5th place away from the piece you are moving is your opponenets piece(or blank), you can land on it and capture it. You can jump over your own pieces. (With the note that you don't want to capture too many since that might make it easier to connect all his pieces with less to work with - but then again, sometimes it is good to take a piece to help "block" your opponenet, or help yourself)
And if that 5th piece is your own pieces, then no - you can not move there and capture your own piece.
. . . . . It's one of those games which can be hard to figure out at first, but sooner or later it will *poof* jump out and make sence on how it works - sometimes it takes a few games for some to catch on.
BIG BAD WOLF: Thank you - I am clinging to the hope that something will jump out at me soon - no,honestly - you have helped a great deal and I am beginning to see the light
I just found out that I had three good articles by Kerry Handscomb in old issues of "Abstract Games Magazine". Here are the basic strategy tips given :
- Material is definitely good. Having more men gives more moves, hence better flexibility for both attack and defence. Material gain is disregarded though when it would move a man away from the action, or when it captures a very remote piece of the opponent, sometimes allowing him a direct connecting combination. For instance, the captures which are possible at the start of the game, like c8xa6, are regarded as neutral (they rather hurt your position, which compensates for winning a man). - The best winning strategy is to aim for a compact group, that is a group where any piece removal still leaves the group connected, and then patiently connect the isolated men into this group, trying to use them for distant threats. - The exact center is not the best place to build such a compact group because it can be too easily attacked. Of course the side is not best either, as will be seen later. - However, moving a piece to the center (up to d3-e3) when it can't be taken is generally a good move (but is impossible in the start position). - Building a loosely connected group is dangerous because the opponent will attack its weak link(s). In the worst case, the opponent will manage to capture a weak link in the middle of the group and cut it in two equal pieces, leaving you needing an astronomic number of moves to bring them together again. - The two most obvious opening strategies are bad : trying to connect the two groups of the start position is very bad, because such a connection will be loose and you will be likely to be cut in two. Running with one of the start groups to the other (damn, I have tried to use that!) is remotely better, but will lose to the strategy explained in the next point. - The best you can achieve from the opening is to build a wall on a second rank, leaving the unmoved pieces from the opponent behind. This wall can be used as the target area for building a compact group, and the opponent will lose a lot of time extricating his pieces. If he tries to leave his pieces in place and connect the other to them, it will be easy for you to capture one of the middle pieces, leaving this group cut in two parts in a desperate position. (My addition) Indeed, it is so easy to achieve that you can wait until he is close to connect, it will hurt even more.
Do you like to play line games or want to learn? If you do, you should join the Official Lines Fellowship! We have line teams for almost every game as well as tourneys coming more and more! Sign up if you would like to join for teams, tourneys, lots of games, and the chance to better your game!
There is a variant of LOA (developed for an imperfect reason but still the result was playable and challenging) called 'Alternate' LOA, whereby black starts with a stone on b1, White on c1, Black on d1, White on e1, etc. all the way around the board. The object is the same, to aggregate all of your color, but the strategies are markedly different. Since no two stones of the same color are on adjacent spaces, it compels the player to take into account all of the stones.
Perhaps with enough support and requests, we can get it added here. It doesn't seems too difficult to program.
If anyone would like to join our Slow Time Controls fellowship LOA team you are more than welcome. Send a message to me and I will invite you to the fellowship where you can join the team! Slow Time Controls
Modificato da coan.net (17. Novembre 2006, 16:17:56)
I've searched a couple of websites about the game, and I could only find 1 mention of this situation, and even then they did not say what the result would be.
I've asked on a yahoo discussion board about the game what should happen.
I would guess either (1) the player just passes the turn or (2) loses the game or (3) game is a draw.
Once we know what is suppose to happen, we can probable have Fencer program it so that it will happen. I will let you know when/if I get an answer.
Rule 9 deal with this situation, and here is what is said about it:
Soucie did not cover this situation. LOA players thought that this situation was impossible in a real game for a long time. But computer simulations proved that such a situation could occur in a real game. The alternative proposed and commonly used was that the player has to pass. Unfortunately Soucie has died in 1997. It is hard to find a satisfying rule.
Some points against the lose rule.
* The object of the game is to connect your pieces in one group. Not to eliminate the opponent's moves like in Amazons or draughts. LOA is a connection game, you win by connecting your pieces. * You don't know if the player would have lost the game. It deserves a chance to defend itself. * The player is punished enough by passing. In LOA passing is mostly disadvantageous.
Some points against the passing rule.
* If you look at rule 3 a player has to move, passing is out of the question. * The game is called Lines of Action. The name suggests active play, not passive play by passing. * The player would probably lose the game anyway in this situation. By the passing rule the game would continue unnecessarily longer. * It is possible that passing is an advantage. The player is not punished but rewarded.
Current Results
Recently, Jorge Gomez Arrausi posted the following alternative solution to this matter: "If a player cannot move, the game should be drawn. The objective is the connection." The problem with this rule is that introduce drawing, which is not the intention of LOA (see also the discussion about rule 8).
(nascondi) Se clicchi sopra il nome del giocatore e poi clicchi sulle partite terminate avrete una lista delle partite che sono state completate. Poi clicca sopra il nome del gioco per ottenere un sommario di tutte queste partite, cliccando ancora sopra il nome del gioco otterrete la partita da osservare ed analizzare. (Servant) (mostra tutti i suggerimenti)