takjas: Hi all. You should be able to play D4xB8 or D4xF8. For me these are the correct moves. However, if you can't play them, please try D4xB3 or D4xB2 or D4xB1 through D4xD6xD8xB8xB3 or B2 or B1.
rabbitoid: Thanks for your responce! I read the rules carefully but I see a contradiction. In Dameo a pawn can reach the last row while jumping only vertically - then the next jump backwards is the same way and a piece is jumped twice - it is impossible. May be in BrainKing Dameo games after jump to the last row it cannot continue jumping horizontally, but then this "However..." is nonsence. Then in this position the promoted Queen must stop in d8. We cannot change it and it is very difficult to Fencer too. Inventor of the game Christian Freeling wrote else: "If a man ends its move on the opponent's back row, it is promoted to king. A man passing the back row in a capture, but not ending on it, does not promote." http://mindsports.nl/index.php/arena/dameo/65-rules
I understand that in ArenA it can continue jumping horizontally.
Look at the rules, section Dameo: When a pawn reaches the last row, it promotes to a queen. However, if a pawn reaches the last row while jumping and can jump more pieces backwards, it does not promote and continues jumping as a pawn.
Currently looking for serious game players who play checkers and variants to join Brian's 1971 Pub. Starting March 14th, we will have the following checkers tournaments begin in my fellowship...Checkers, Czech checkers, Italian Checkers and Corner checkers. Please request membership to play in any of these tournaments. Thank you.
Justaminute: Game rules -> Dameo. The page lists all the quirks for particular variants of checkers. For Dameo (the last) "Pawns can jump backwards" is checked, so yes, for this particular variant they do.
In playing a game of Dameo the site allowed, in fact insisted that I make a backwards capture of a pawn with a pawn. I playing white had a pawn on a5, my opponent moved to a4 and i had to take it moving to a3. Is this a bug or a valid move? It isnt clear to me that pawns can move backward, it doesnt normally happen in checkers.
In this game: Braziliaans Dammen (Perin - joshi tm) my opponent has 3 queens and I have only one. Of course I cannot win, but as long as I control the diagonal, my opponent can't also win, right? Can I force a draw or have I lost the game already?
I think Jump Checkers has pretty deep strategy. Between deciding to split jump or force your your way to the King Row, it can be pretty tough in the early going. When it gets near to being all Kings is when you find yourself checking far to make sure before making it all Kings.
Lightbug: Well, I prefer portuguese draughts. You can find a lot of literature about the game, because it is more predictable. So, studying makes you stronger, what is grateful for any player. However, I know much better portuguese than brasilian draughts, and I (of course) accept a different opinion!
Which variation of 8x8 Checkers do you guys find to have the deepest strategy? Being able to capture backwards on 8x8 does seem to make it more interesting, but does the long range king or queen make the game better also? If it does, then perhaps playing 8x8 Draughts with the Polish or International Draught rules might be the best. 10x10 seems so large that I start to lose interest. Brazilian Draughts has the same rule set as Polish Draughts but for 8x8, but does the game have a following? Or does not being able to capture backwards better for 8x8 in Portugese Draughts?
Сделано для Undertaker. (17. Октября 2011, 21:39:03)
furbster: Hi furbster. Of course, it's possible. El Cid cannot make more mores, so you're the winner. Happen the same with all checkers variants, but it's an unusual endgame.
Czuch: there are no pics but here is the words.....
Anti Checkers by Fernando Ferreira:
Introduction: I decided to write this article for two reasons, the first one was that almost all games have some tips and strategies so that people who start playing it can have some idea of what they are doing and I guess anti checkers was in need of the same, as I never done something like that I guess this would be a challenge for me even because I’m not writing in my main language which makes this the second reason . If someone who is reading this see any mistake I made please say something. I’m going to use some anti checkers matches as an example so I hope people won’t mind. I used Cake Manchester to allow me to set up the board so I could give some examples.
Rules: The rules of this game are exactly the same as checkers but the goal is to loose the game ,pretty simple ? maybe not!
Basic Strategy: The strategy of an huge majority of people who start playing this game is trying to give as many pieces away as possible, that’s the WORST strategy and will not give you any win. The best strategy, even if it is hard to manage, is try to have more pieces than your opponent and only give them away when you can give all, in anti chess they use the expression “loosing machine” to say when a player will be forced to jump all his opponent’s pieces and I liked that so maybe I use it or it’s initial “LM” . This strategy has some exceptions which I will talk about later.
Starting the game: I could write two pages about this part without saying everything I wanted to say so let’s keep it simple. First thing is never allow your opponent to trap you in the “Dead Corner” as shown in the image 1 unless you have a pretty good reason for it, it’s going to be hard to get it out of there before you get caught in a “LM”.
Dead Corner
Always be careful with the pieces you have in row 2, 4, 6. A piece in line 1 has only the potential to jump up to 3 pieces as once row 7 is reached it can’t jump any more. On the other hand a piece in any of the row’s mentioned is enough to jump all pieces in board. Finding wins is one really hard part of the game to master (Even me after so many games loose a lot because I just didn’t see it) so I’m going to leave some here has exercise (2 of them were some top player games and they both missed it) . They will have different types of difficulty, the first type is mainly the basic victories in anti checkers, and the hard ones will be a challenge even for the most experienced players. In the middle game the strategy remains the same.
Black to move and win -easy
Black to move and win-easy As I said a piece in row 4 (white row 4) can be forced to jump all pieces
Black to move and win-easy
Black to move and win-medium
Black to move and win-medium
White to move and win- pro
Black to move and win – pro
Black to move and win- Pro
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White has just made this move! Let’s analyse it: Most probably white is thinking: well if red jumps with the piece in 15 square he looses but he may miss it, if he jumps with the piece in 13 I am going to be in material advantage! Even_if I invented this game I guess that is what white would be thinking :)! However by doing so white is putting itself in a loosing situation. I’m going to show it. After 2 move the game would be like this (the move not shown is black giving his piece in square 22 away):
Now whatever white moves red can win! I call that a “trapped king win”! If white tries to take his king out of there black would make the move 1-5 and would easily win If white tries to move 20 –15 then the game would end up like this:
White trapped and whatever it does it will loose.
So I end this part with some very good advice: Never let your opponent trap one of your kings even if it is not an immediate win!
Flawed wins: Sometimes you almost see a win but your opponent has some way out. I consider a flawed win when you start giving the pieces away meaning putting yourself in disadvantage hoping that your opponent do not see his way out. I’m not going to show any example of this but I guess it would be good to talk about it.
End games 1vs1- always a win to the player who has the edge advantage
Player to move wins
1 vs. more than one- can be a win a draw or a loose to the player with 1 piece. Looses are the most common .I will post here the only possibility of a draw I can remember and some of the many possibilities of wining with that single piece.
Loosing situations against 1 piece:
White to move and no way out so loose.
White to move-draw position Red to move –win position for red
2vs2 – Can either be a draw if your both pieces are together and in a “good position” or a win (loose...)I am going to show some “good positions” and some bad positions which would make you loose.
Both black and white in a good position -draw.
The arrows show the moves you need to do if you want to be certain you continue in a good position!
White to move and win:
2 vs. more than 2- 2 pieces if in a good position like the ones I showed before cannot be reached without putting yourself in a loosing situation so that would be a draw, unless you have more than 8 pieces then the endgame would be something has shown in this image. 2 pieces can also be in a winning position as any number of pieces can be. Of course 2 pieces could also loose.
8 vs. 2 win, when white in a “good” position
Exceptions: Now that you have a deeper understanding of the game I am going to talk about those exceptions. There is a very important quality of your game, which I call “threatening” . For an example imagine this: your opponent has such a game that really restricts your moves, some will make you loose pieces, and some would make you get caught in a “LM”, now imagine you give one or two away and put one of your opponent’s pieces in the back of your game he will not be able to give all his pieces away in most cases will he? So you are not so afraid that he finds a win and then you will have more mobility and he will be in trouble because you the one who have a “threatening” game now. I will list some exceptions as an example. I’m sure some players disagree with me at this point so I’m welcome to critics.
In this case even if white has two more pieces than black, white moves are clearly restricted! Of course if white finds a way out will be in advantage but now that only depends in the skill of both players! Curiosity: ( I was white and I lost this game vs. Yuri maybe now I would not but at the time I lost it.)
H-2 Square for black and A-8 Square for white is in many cases a good place to put one of your opponent pieces!
Any suggestion and comments (constructive ones) will be welcome! If you think that there is something I could write to this please say it and if I find it convenient I will add it here!
Czuch: Fernando Ferreira (Fernando F.) was one of the most impressive players in Brainking, in some games (if you forget the cheaters, of course... :)). He was a clean and amazing players of suiciders (anti-checkers), certainly the best ever, in BK. He wrote an article about the game. Learn everything in the article, and you'll be a pro! You can see it in his profile! :)
Czuch: Well... I saw some of your games. You must understand that the point of the game is CONTROL, so... you must play it almost as you were playing "common checkers", trying to have more pieces than the other one. You must only "give them away" when you are absolutelly sure you will be able to do it to ALL OF THEM.
An example: if you have 4 pieces in game, and the other player has 7 pieces, he is clearly in advantage. A lot of players think it would be you, but is wrong.
Another example. Look at this game (your). Very bad move, this one... you were in advantage, and you gave it to V.. Remember... top situation is: your opponent with only 1 piece, and you with 2, 3, 4... with a few of them!
Do it, and you'll increase your results!
In next post, I'll give you some EXTRAORDINARY material!
ChaseWinstead: In my opinion, the main advantage in fellowships is the possibility to play in team tournaments, wich I really like. Team competition is something I would like to see even more developed in here!
rod03801: So if I was to purchase a membership I could join a fellowship. Anyone with experience have anything to say for or against the fellowships on this site?
Czuch: I think it is me that is confused, not the rules...... I see now that those special rules do not in fact apply to checkers or anti checkers.
but....
The pawn that have jumped over an opponent's piece and turned to a king (reached the opposite side of the board), does not have to continue jumping as a king in this round, even if it would be possible. When a pawn promotes to a king, the move is ALWAYS finished.
"does not have to" implies that it is permissible if one chooses to? Yet the last line forbids this then?
I have noticed while reading the rules of anti checkers, that it states the rules are the same as checkers, yet when I look at the grid above this explaination, under checkers, there are no asterisks in any of the columns showing that jumping or capturing is required? This could lead to some confusion, and only looking at the rules link for checkers is it explained about the mandatory capturing etc?
Jaak: In my opinion, it is necessary to apply the following rule specified in the rules of Checkers: “If, after jumping, it is possible to jump over another opponent's piece, the player must capture this piece too.” It is the fundamental rule of all variants of checkers and the mere fact that it is not expressly stated in the rules of all variants here at BK does not exclude its application. After all, the implementation of Czech Checkers, Corner Checkers, One-Way Checkers, as well as a number of other variants played here at BK, do honor the rule, even though it is not provided for in the rules of these games.
We have good rules here - simple and short. But in this case, unfortunately, they can be misinterpreted. I have found a systematic bug in Russian Checkers (bugs 1582, 1898, 2001 and 2014). In our rules there is written: "Unlike International Checkers, it is not mandatory to make the longest possible jump." It is right, but there is not written an important nuance. In GoldToken Russian Checkers rules we can read, how King (or Queen) must jump: "If there is more than one unoccupied square beyond the jumped piece, the king must land on a square from which it is possible to continue jumping, if such a square exists in the chosen direction." The same it is in Ludoteka Russian Checkers rules , in rules of gambler.ru - the greatest Russian gamesite - and in all Checkers textbooks, published in Russia and previous USSR. In the situation Russian Checkers (Priidik vs. Edem das Seine) it was necessary to capture 37. ... g1xd4xf6 (or g7) but our program allowed to capture g1xa7. Then I wrote in BrainKing.ru http://brainking.com/en/Board?bc=110&plla=1041732 , but after that Edem das Seine made 2nd illegale capture 38. ... a7xg1, it was necessary 38. ... a7xd4xf6 (or g7). Many people believe here that if the BrainKing program allows such capture then it is correct. What do you think? Is it necessary to follow official Russian Checkers rules or not?
Mysterio619:You are absolutely right, till March, 4th, 2009 Turkish draughts played this site not after the present to rules and on March, 4th, 2009 the Fencer has corrected......... Simply at present it is necessary to celebrate the description of games........